News of Ethiopia

Written and complied by Barry Hillenbrand (Debre Marcos 63–65)

Oromo Ceasefire?

Oromo troops

As any foreign correspondent who has covered Ethiopia and its long war with the Oromo Liberation Front knows, getting to talk with leaders of the OLF is a difficult and dangerous business. Journalists traveling in search of interviews in the south of Ethiopia have been detained and roughed up. So when Emily Wax, a former foreign correspondent for the Washington Post now working in Washington after a tour in Africa, wanted to get an update on the OLF, she drove up to the Petworth section of Washington, D.C., and sat down at a café on Georgia Avenue NW. It turns out that while U Street in Washington is little Addis, upper Georgia Ave is Oromo-land.

Taha Tuko

Wax scored not only an interview with Taha Tuko, a leader of the OFM, but came across a bit of news. Tuko told her that “the violence is over, and this is good news.” The OLF has been retooled, Tuko told Wax, “Our mission is no longer independence.” Rather, he said, they would like to work with other opposition parties to bring down — via elections — the present government of Prime Minister Meles Zenawi. “You’ve heard of the Arab Spring,” said another Omomo, Abebe Belew, a radio host with the cynical, comical air of Jon Stewart, “Well, this is our Ethiopian Winter because of the dropping of secession. But soon it’s going to be much bigger than the Arab Spring, because our biggest breakaway group wants unity and they will join forces against the current government.”

While the Oromo community in Washington, which may number as many as 10,000, has an extensive network of church and mosques, social clubs and newspapers, even a Miss Oroma contest and an on-line dating service, bringing unity to all the political factions will be difficult. Splintering political groups have long beset the community, both in Washington and back in Ethiopia.  And to get the Oromos to work with other opposition parties, including those dominated by Amharas, will be doubly hard. Still the declaration of a ceasefire in the long secessionist war is a major step forward to bring peace to Ethiopia. To read Wax’s long and informative piece on the Oromo in the Washington Post, click HERE.

Free Eskinder Nega

Eskinder Nega

In recent months, pressure has been building in support of Eskinder Nega, an Ethiopian journalist and blogger who has been on trial in Addis on charges of terrorism and incitement to violent revolt. Eskinder was arrested after he published articles linking the Arab Spring to Ethiopia. In his stories he also disputed the number of journalists claimed being held by the government as suspected terrorists. He also was critical of the arrest of popular actor Debebe Eshetu. After Eskinder’s arrest in September 2011, he was charged with plotting to bring arms into Ethiopia from Eritrea.  On national TV, the government claimed that Eskinder was “a spy for foreign forces.”

Serkalem Fasil

Eskinder has been arrested more than a half dozen times by the present government. In 2005 he and his wife, Serkalem Fasil, were arrested and charged with treason for writing about the arrests of opposition party members following the election of 2005. Eskinder and Serkalem were held for 17 months. Their child was born in prison. He and his family were released in 2007 with warnings to behave themselves, but he bravely and obstinately continued to write and publish.

Eskinder Nega gives the government of Prime Minister Meles Zenawi severe headaches. Meles relishes his role as one of the reasonable and enlightened leaders of Africa. He is always jetting off to this conference or that to talk about African development. He’s been invited to the next G8 meeting. And he points to two elections to confirm his legitimacy as a democratic leader. But Ethiopian democracy has a thin, even imaginary, veneer. As a result, Meles and his people do suffer critics lightly. Those who speak out against the government are arrested and locked away to be forgotten. So while Meles is busy delivering often commendable programs to the country — which has made progress in recent years — he also has constructed a quasi-Stalinist state that people like Eskinder are busy exposing for what it is.

In May Eskinder was awarded the prestigious Freedom to Write award by PEN America. Hours before the ceremony, Serkalem arrived from Addis to accept the award. In a touching speech, she said that “prison has been Eskinder’s home away from home for the past two decades.” She continued: “If Eskinder were standing here, he would accept this award not just as a personal honor, but on behalf of all Ethiopian journalists who toil under withering repression in Ethiopia today, those forced into exile over the years, those in prison with him now, and even those who serve in state media for no other reason than making a living.”

Beer Wars

Jumbos at the Beemnet Bar

Okay, tela and tej are great, and they sustained a great many PCVs during their years in Ethiopia. But western, lager-style beer, like St George and Harar, was a pleasant — albeit more expensive — alternative widely consumed. As Ethiopia’s middle class expands and its urban population explodes, beer is fast becoming a much more popular drink.  It is consumed, for example, in over-sized mugs called “jumbos” in sports bars like Addis’ Beemnet Bar while fans watch English Premier League football matches on flat screen TVs.

Ethiopia’s beer market is projected to increase by 15 per cent a year, and the prospect of ever more consumption of jumbos has brought the big foreign beer companies into the market.  In the 1990s BGI Ethiopia, a French run brewery consortium (yes, the French know how to make great beer too!), acquired the iconic St George brewery from the government as part of the post-Deng privatization. But BGI, Ethiopia’s largest brewing concern, is in for competition. Last year Heineken, the Dutch brewery, paid $163 million for  two breweries in Ethiopia: the Harar Brewery, which produces Harar Beer and Hakim Stout, two very popular beers, and the Bedele brewery in the west of Ethiopia.

In May, Heineken announced that it will invest more money in additional brewing facilities to be built near Addis. It will also build a water treatment plant and plant hops to help produce top quality beers. In addition to the present brands, Heineken may brew its own green label beer and Amstel in the new brewery near Addis.

In addition to the French consortium and Heineken, Diago, a British based liquor giant that owns part of Guinness and Johnnie Walker, recently bought Meta Abo Beer Factory for $14.5 million.  There’s lots of room for expansion.  Ethiopian beer consumption is a mere four liters per capita, compared with 11 liters for Nigeria and 12 for Kenya — and a whopping 60 liters for South Africa. Order another round of jumbos, goshi.

Lucy’s cousins

Lucy, the famed Ethiopian fossil of an upright humanoid dating back 3.5 million years, was not without the company of other pre-human species. In a March issue of Nature a team of scholars reported on the finding of bones from a foot in the Afar region of Ethiopia, near a location called Burtele. “The Burtele partial foot clearly shows that at 3.4 million years ago, Lucy’s species, which walked upright on two legs, was not the only hominine species living in this region of Ethiopia,” said lead author and project leader Dr. Yohannes Haile-Selassie, curator of physical anthropology at The Cleveland Museum of Natural History. “Her species co-existed with close relatives who were more adept at climbing trees, like ‘Ardi’s’ species, Ardipithecus ramidus, which lived 4.4 million years ago.”

This new species, which does not have a name yet because skull and dental elements have not been discovered, had a big toe which was probably adept at holding on branches, but lacked “an expansion joint that would allow for an expanded range of movement required for pushing off the ground for upright walking,” said co-author and project co-leader Dr. Bruce Latimer of Case Western Reserve University. “This individual would have likely had something of an awkward gait when on the ground.”  The findings indicate that one sort of hominine was adapted to living in the trees while Lucy was living on the land.

News of Eritrea

Written and complied by Barry Hillenbrand (Debre Marcos 63–65)

 Where’s President Isaias?

As any regular watcher of Eritrean state TV (and is there any other kind in Asmara?) knows, President Isaias Afwerki is a staple on the evening news. Omnipresent you might say: receiving guests, inspecting fisheries or farms, presiding over cabinet meetings. Always dapper and informal, clad in sandals and a hang-out shirt, Isaias is a TV performer of considerable charm well endowed with the common touch. He’d be the perfect guest on the “Today” show.  But suddenly in April he disappeared from the TV and from seemingly all other events. He was last reported seen receiving the credentials of the South African Ambassador on March 28th. Then nothing.

Eritrea being a small country, rumors —some wild, some plausible — soon began to circulate. Was he ill? Isaias is said to have liver problems, not helped, it is said, by his drinking. During 2011, he visited Qatar at least seven times, supposedly for medical attention. Was there a crisis between the military and civilian ranks of the government?  Stories of a stormy meeting between Isaias and his top military people began making the rounds, becoming more elaborate and unbelievable with every telling. Was he hiding in some bunker?

The rumors became so heated that when the BBC from London called the Minister of Information, Ali Abdu, he took the call and felt compelled to refute the rumors and declare that the President was in “robust health.”

Then exactly 30 days after he disappeared, Isaias reappeared on TV, all smiles.   Clad in his familiar short-sleeved shirt, blue pants and sandals, the President looked relaxed and said that, well, gosh, he had been out of the country for some time and then in the last week traveling in the remote parts of the country. You know, “the edges of Gash Barka [in Western Eritrea], to Afabet, Gulbub, Massawa, and had breakfast in Gahtelai.”  When he returned to Asmara, he told the TV audience, his wife Saba told him there was a lot of “news.”  Well, yes, like, where was the president?  He finally paid attention. “I don’t follow the internet and I don’t have a mobile phone,” he said, so how was he to know?  Besides why should the President be on TV every night, he told the TV interviewer who was respectfully dressed in a suit.

But no, he was not ill. Said Isaias: “I have no sickness, I am healthy, but because the rumors are repeated . . . but you can’t chase the wind [or] follow those who are mentally deranged [and spread news] . . . and people should wise up.  If you ask me, ‘are you sick?’ I would say, my illness is in the mental derangement of others.”

So for 30 minutes the president talked about everything, including castigating the news media and lecturing on the evils of advertising. A classic, brainy talk with the President designed to end all the rumors. By mid-May, the President seemed to be back to his usual routine meeting with regional councils, for example. At least that’s what the press releases say. He’s not been back on TV. Rumors persist.

A Jolly, Fun World Record

All along the Asha-Golgol-Himbirti road in Asmara is a bright painting named “Polution Free World.” A world record painting, and a painting celebrating a world free of pollution. The work of 827 students under the guidance of Habtom Mihretab — everybody got a piece of the action! — the painting now holds the record as the world’s longest painting. It measures out at 7.166 km, beating the previous records of a mere 6 km, held by the collaborative work of some Mexican students. The staff of the Guinness Book of Records, which knows a bit about the biggest and longest, sent a letter to Eritrea confirming the record. It took the students 55 days to do all the painting.  Now, say the teachers, the students have to work hard to maintain the painting – and make sure the record is not surpassed.

A less distinguished world record

The Committee to Protect Journalists this month released the list of the world’s top ten most censored countries. The new world record holder: Eritrea, which displaced North Korea, long the world’s leader in press censorship. Syria and Iran rank third and fourth. “In the name of stability or development these regimes suppress independent reporting, amplify propaganda and use technology to control rather than empower their own citizens,” says Joel Simon, the executive director of the Committee to Protect Journalists. “Journalists are seen as a threat and often pay high price for the reporting but because the internet and trade have made information global domestic censorship affects people every where.” The Committee says that at least 25 journalists are currently held in prison in Eritrea for violating press laws. Reporters Without Borders described Eritrea as “Africa’s biggest jail for the media.”

Profitable Gold Mines

What News Summary would be complete without a report on Eritrea’s gold mines? In brief, they are very profitable. Nevsun, the Canadian company that has the license to mine gold in Eritrea, reports that profits were up for the first quarter. Prices for gold have increased and the cost of production is down. Additionally the quality of the ore produced at its mines has been higher than expected. The company forecasts that gold production for 2012 will be 210,000 ounces [worth $333,900,000 at today's price], higher than its original estimate of 190,000  ounces.

New airline route

Eritrean airlines announced a new route from Asmara to Cape Town South Africa. The flights on an Airbus 319, will leave Asmara four days a week. They will stop in Uganda on route.

Books

A Beautiful Story of Eritrea for Our Younger Readers

The Mangrove Tree: Planting Trees to Feed Families
By Susan L. Roth & Cindy Trumbore, collages by Susan L. Roth
Lee & Low Books Inc., 2011
$19.95.

Reviewed by Janet Lee (Emdeber 1974–76)

The Mangrove Tree is really two books in one.  A simple tale in cumulative verse in the fashion of The House the Jack Built or Bringing the Rain to Kapiti Plain graces the pages on the left in large type for beginning readers. On the pages to the right, older readers will find the story of Dr. Gordon Sato and his efforts to plant mangrove trees with local women in the small seaside village of Hargigo in Eritrea.  Finally, there is an afterword that provides autobiographical information of Dr. Sato, an American of Japanese descent who was held in the Manzanar War Relocation Center in California during World War II, and where Dr. Sato learned how to make corn grow in the dry, dusty soil. The book further relates the process of planting mangrove trees in seawater and provides an extensive list of definitions and further resources.

The collage illustrations are vibrant and leap from the pages as they follow the two stories side-by-side. Pieces of paper, cloth, and other materials are carefully placed on the textured background, providing images that are so real that the reader is tempted to touch the figures to feel the bumps and grooves and softness, especially of the figures of the goats and sheep as they eat the mangrove trees’ plump leaves.

In addition to being a beautiful story, The Mangrove Tree celebrates life, working together, overcoming adversity, and learning to adapt to the environment in which we live.  This book would be a cherished gift for young and old alike.

Two Substantial Volumes on Ethiopia and Eritrea Lead Off Africa Series

Eritrea (Africa in Focus)
by Mussie Tesfagiorgis G.
ABC-CLIO, 2010
$85.00

Ethiopia (Africa in Focus)
by Paulos Milkias
ABC-CLIO, 2011
$85.00

Reviewed by Janet Lee, (Emdeber 1974-76)

Eritrea and Ethiopia are the first two volumes in the Africa in Focus series published by ABC-CLIO. These comprehensive resources fill an enormous void about these two countries in East Africa, in particular about Eritrea. Written by noted scholars in the field, there is little that is not covered, from history to geography, sports, customs, languages, education, and literature.

There are numerous maps, charts, and black and white photos, and in case of the Ethiopian volume, the photos were taken by the author himself. There is an extensive list of references following each chapter as well as lists of common phrases in Amharic or Tigrigna as appropriate to each volume.  There are even recipes for popular dishes, although the black and white photos do not do the cuisine justice.

History, the economy, and customs and traditions are thoroughly covered.  Neither author hesitates to discuss sensitive topics. The chapters on women in each volume do not disguise the fact that there are still major issues for women, from early marriage, prostitution, female genital mutilation, to educational disparities.  There are a few typographical errors in the Ethiopia volume, the most glaring being a heading in which the Emperor Haile Sellasie was referred to as “Ras Safari” rather than “Ras Tafari,” the obvious victim of an overzealous automatic spell checker.

The volumes are encyclopedia, almanac, and travel guide all rolled into one, although a tad bit too heavy to toss into a backpack.  At $85.00 each, it is also perhaps too expensive for a home library.  Better yet, these volumes would be a good recommendation for the local school library or public library to purchase.  Librarians really do welcome recommendations from their clientele.

Horn of Africa Diaspora in the U.S. Northwest

Seeking Salaam: Ethiopians, Eritreans and Somalis in the Pacific Northwest
By Sandra M. Chait
University of Washington Press, 2011
$35.00

Reviewed by Shelley Tekeste  (Mekelle 2008–10)

Sandra Chait, immigrated to the US from South Africa and received a doctoral degree in English from the University of Washington.  There she taught African literature and served as an associate director of the university’s Program on Africa. Through her interaction with Horn African students, Chait became very interested in the struggles and stories of Ethiopian, Eritrean, and Somali students. Wanting to give authentic voice to Horn Africans, she set out to talk to volunteers from each community, asking questions, recording participant’s words, as well as body language.

This book looks at the three communities of people from the Horn of Africa within Seattle, Washington and Portland, Oregon. Chait uses personal interviews to extract historical, the long running conceit each country has for each other and the underlying US, British and Italian agendas that have helped fuel conflict in the Horn of Africa for decades. Interviewees often point fingers and lay blame on evils that each country has done to the other, whether it is an issue of clan against clan, region against region or political faction against political faction, mourning the loss of family, friends and the “old” way of life destroyed by conflict has hurt all East Africans.

Here in the US, these three immigrant communities still carry grudges from their homelands, although they show no violence here, they separate themselves from each other instead of consolidating.  Chait notes that even within the Ethiopian, Eritrean, and Somali communities they still separate themselves between clans, religions and political groups. This book questions if these communities will ever let go and move forward together as they live and assimilate into American culture.

What lies ahead for those from the Horn of Africa in the Pacific Northwest? Several of the interviewees are working/heading organizations to strengthen the bond within the communities, as their children attend American schools together, as relationships change to an inter-ethnic blend, as women gain autonomy in the US.  One of my favorite sections talks about the ability of women from the Horn of Africa to adapt in the US.  Specifically, Chait found that Somali women work together to support each other by watching each other’s children, no matter what clan they are from.  The resilience of women that have lived through struggle is amazing.  Women do what is necessary to take care of their families, despite the past.

Chait does give a disclaimer in the beginning, as the book presents Ethiopia as the monster of East Africa.  While having served in Ethiopia, particularly the Tigray region myself, I do understand that governmental regimes do not always reflect the thoughts of the people, and that the people should not be blamed for the regimes actions whether it is/was Emperor Haile Selassie, Mengestu Haile Mariam, Meles Zenawi, Isaias Afwerki, or Siyad Barre. It is always the people who suffer and prolonging the finger pointing will not move these countries to peace. Chait has experienced Eritrean hospitality and it is my belief that she is a bit biased on that end. She has done extensive research both historically and culturally and provides an excellent bibliography, timeline and notes for the book.

Famines . . . An Act of Nature or Man Made?

Three Famines: Starvation and Politics
by Thomas Keneally
Serpentine Publishing, 2011
$27.99

Reviewed by Michael O’Brien (Gerawa, Garamuleta, Harrar Province 1967-69)

Within our lifetimes, famine has killed millions of human beings. Despite advances in modern technology, agricultural science, market economies, world-wide communications and transportation networks, famine is occurring somewhere on earth today. How is it possible that a disaster described in the Bible could still afflict humans, with more people suffering and dying than ever before? Thomas Keneally’s account of famines in Ireland in the 1840s, Bengal during World War II and Ethiopia in the 1970s and ’80s provides insights into root causes common across time and nations. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the critical factor is human psychology. Personal values, perceptions and culture played a core role in the past and, despite progress, still do in our time.  Nature sometimes creates crop shortages, but famines are caused by the human response.

Our response to famine naturally focuses on relieving immediate suffering by providing food, health care and shelter to the displaced. Keneally’s book suggests that we try to avoid or mitigate future famines by studying and addressing the human factors of “war, oppression and civic mayhem.”

Keneally traveled in Ethiopia and Eritrea during the war, and witnessed famine first-hand, including the Mengistu dictatorship’s use of starvation as a weapon of war. He draws on historical research to describe the great famine, Gorta Mor, in Ireland in the 1840s, and in Bengal in 1943-45 during World War II.

Each of these famines had particular characteristics unique to the country. Ireland’s peasant farmers depended on a single variety of potato, so a crop failure was widespread. Bengal’s harvest failed while the Japanese were threatening to invade India. Ethiopia’s crop failure was initially hidden from the world as a local matter. Three Famines describes how in each case a solvable problem, an initial crop failure, grew into a catastrophe.

Keneally points out that societies in which farmers are marginalized and oppressed are more vulnerable to crop failures, because poverty leaves little margin to manage and survive shortfalls in harvests. Poverty also sets the stage for delayed and inadequate responses from authoritarian governments. Traveling in Ireland in 1835, Alexis de Tocqueville wrote, “The population looks very wretched. Many wear clothes with holes or much patched. Most of them are bare-headed and barefoot . . . it is a frightening thing, I assure you, to see a whole population reduced to fasting like Trappists and not being sure by fasting of surviving to the next harvest.” As a Volunteer in Harar province in the late 1960s, this description sounds all too familiar.

Ireland and India were administered by the imperial government of Britain, and Ethiopia by Haile Selassie. These governments had no clear lines of authority and no plans in place to manage a crop failure, which hampered and slowed their responses. More importantly, the dismissive attitude of people in government toward the poor was within their respective cultural norms. Haile Selassie kept Ethiopia and Eritrea together like a medieval ruler, “by brutality and the application of want as an act of discipline.” He regularly used starvation and fear as policy, a means of bringing resistant tribes and subjects to heel.

This set the stage for Haile Selassie’s government to ignore the failure of keremt rains in Tigre and Wollo in 1972, which were followed by the failure of belg rains in 1973. The estimated crop loss was about 7% from normal, but the government’s initial response was mainly to suppress information and arrest protestors. Selassie commented, “Rich and poor have always existed and always will. Why? Because there are those who work and those who prefer to do nothing. Each individual is responsible for his misfortunes, his fate.” Relief agencies were not allowed in until a BBC documentary, The Unknown Famine, shocked the world.

The 1972–73 famine led directly to the overthrow of the emperor by the Derg, and to Mengistu Haile Miriam’s dictatorship. His murderous Maoist vision of “land reform” blossomed into the Red Terror — the arrest, torture and killing of thousands — and the collectivization of peasant lands, which made subsequent famine even worse. Mengistu lived in an unreal bubble of denial, avoiding contact with the starving, creating a hell for the living and trying to prevent assistance from outside or expelling organizations like Medecins sans Frontieres who criticized his government openly.

Meles Zenawi, current ruler of Ethiopia, continues the pattern of denial of food emergencies. Seeing this, even Keneally doesn’t know what to think. He ends by saying “It seems there is a virus in Ethiopian government that transfers itself from regime to regime.”

Some of the work we did as Volunteers in Ethiopia was undone by pathological governments. I wonder if the world should insist on creating a managed partnership that would align interests of international companies, governments and global organizations with the national government of Ethiopia to create a framework that supports local autonomy within a rule of law, while preventing diversion of resources to pointless war and repression. If we don’t, Keneally’s virus is sure to strike again.

An Engaging History by One of Our Own

Angels Of Mercy – White Women And The History Of New York’s Colored Orphan Asylum 
By William Seraile (Makele 63–65)
Fordham University Press,  2011
$29.00

Reviewed by Floyd Davis (Gore 63 – 65)

William Seraile (Ethiopia II), Emeritus Professor of African American History at Lehman College in New York City, has written an engaging book about the establishment of the Colored Orphan Asylum in New York City over a century and a half ago. The “angels” in this work refer to a group of white women who came together in 1836 to establish this orphanage for homeless and abandoned African American children who were fending for themselves on the streets. The desire of these women to house, clothe and educate these desperate children took moral courage on their part although their call to action was steeped in the paternalism of the times that made it the duty of whites to uplift heathen races and teach them the tenets of Christianity, which was central to their civilizing mission.

The story of the establishment of the Colored Orphan Asylum in New York City (then only the borough of Manhattan) provides us a window into the condition of African Americans in the city after the abolition of slavery in New York in 1827. Seraile gives us a brief history of this period that goes a long way in explaining the circumstances that undoubtedly led to these homeless and abandoned children ending up on the streets. African Americans lived on the margins of society, facing indignities wherever they went. They had to stand in public conveyances or ride in separate cars, sit in the balcony of churches and ride on the decks of steamers, regardless of the weather. They often found themselves the object of random violence from whites who were hostile to their very presence in the city. Escaped slaves were hunted down and returned to their owners while free blacks were kidnapped and sold into slavery. This precarious existence of African Americans, made worse by competition from recent European immigrants for low wage jobs, did not lend itself to stable family units.

The Colored Orphan Asylum was established chiefly through the efforts of one Anna Shotwell along with other prominent white, mostly Quaker, women. They were connected to some of the wealthiest and most influential men in the city, among them John Jacob Astor, Rufus Lord and Anson G. Phelps. There were also men who worked directly with them in running the orphanage, handling the institution’s finances, budgetary matters and the institution’s investments. The presence of these men also served to deflect societal criticism of these white women who had chosen the unaccustomed role of becoming guardians of black children. The orphanage managed to survive the uncertain early days although the women had problems raising sufficient funds to put the orphanage on a sound footing, despite the best efforts of the men advising them. Financial security would become an intractable problem throughout the institution’s existence. Matters worsened with the Draft Riots of 1863 when roaming rioters burned down the orphanage on Fifth Avenue and Fortieth Street.  These riots went on for three days with white, mostly Irish immigrants, directing their anger at African Americans. The aftermath of this disaster sent the trustees of the orphanage searching out a new home uptown in Harlem.

The orphanage would change over the years, both as to the children it admitted and the people who ran the institution. It began to take in abused and neglected children and children from one-parent households (referred to as “half-orphans”). Soon these children outnumbered the orphans in the institution, which then made the institution an orphanage in name only. The children were routinely indentured to homes outside the city to work a specified period of time with families to prepare them for jobs once they left the institution.

The most persistent problem the orphanage faced was how to discipline the children. Corporal punishment was instituted for the most difficult children, then withdrawn, then re-instituted to be administered only by specific staff members. From 1879 to 1886 many of the institution’s children with the worst disciplinary problems were indentured to families out west where it was thought they would be less likely to present problems for these families. Eventually corporal punishment was ended altogether and in 1923 indenturing of children was outlawed.

The involvement of African Americans in the operation of the institution did not come about until the twentieth century. There were blacks in the housekeeping staff and James McCune Smith, a black doctor, served the children for some 20 years until his death in 1865. A scathing criticism of the orphanage by W. E. B. Dubois in The Crisis in 1913 led to the hiring of more black employees. However, it was not until 1939, over a century after the institution’s founding, that an African American was appointed to the board of directors. The 1940s saw more prominent African Americans such as Bill “Bojangles” Robinson, Joe Louis and the Delany Sisters (Sarah and Elizabeth) become involved with the institution. Sadly it must be noted, in light of more recent events, that the institution became a target of medical researchers seeking unsuccessfully to use the children in testing a vaccine for tuberculosis, a reminder of attempts in the 1980s by medical researchers to use children in the foster care system to test an AIDS vaccine and also to use them as experimental subjects in the now discredited violence initiative program.

In 1907 the Colored Orphan Asylum would make its last move to the Riverdale section of the Bronx, a borough of New York City since 1898. A change of name to the Riverdale Children’s Association would follow along with the acceptance of white children, mandated by state law. An orphanage that started out as an experiment in charitable giving had long since become an established state-supported institution. But its financial problems along with changing placement options for children would catch up with it. In 1948 after dispersing its last remaining children to foster care homes, the orphanage closed its doors and sold its property. This action brought an end to the institution’s long history of caring for homeless, neglected and abused African American children.

Angels Of Mercy helps us better understand the lives of African Americans in New York during a period that is not often discussed. Seraile has kept his extensive research from impeding the flow of his narrative so that the book, written in easily accessible language, will interest both the general reader and the scholar. This book is a worthy addition to the history of people of African ancestry in America.

End of Issue 11 — 5/22/2012

Editor’s Note

Exit Strategy

After seven years, it’s time to go

By Barry Hillenbrand (Debre Marcos 63–65)

Barry

Back in 2004 E&E RPCV president Marian Beil, speaking at the meeting of our group at the RPCV Conference in Chicago, asked whether there was anyone interested in helping her with the HERALD. I had recently retired after working 34 years at TIME magazine. I knew something about writing and editing. So I thought, hey, I could lend a hand. It would be a piece of cake.

Well, some piece of cake. For the last seven years I’ve fretted a lot over the HERALD, which Marian correctly says binds us all together. I worried that we were not running the right stories. I worked hard, at times, to make sure the newsletter was bright and informative.  I put out seven issues that were printed on nice light beige-colored paper, and then, after we switched to electronic publishing, I edited nine editions which were delivered online. Still I worried that the HERALD was not appearing as often as it should. There were some very long dry periods without an issue. Those that did appear were mostly fun to produce. I badgered friends and complete strangers into writing for us. I managed to get contributions from those who served in Ethiopia/Eritrea in the ’60s and ’70s and from PCVs currently serving. Lots of people helped.

I am particularly indebted to John Coyne, of PeaceCorpsWorldwide.org, who generously wrote for us while turning out his own blog, editing his excellent site, and writing charming novels about golf. (Rumor has it he also holds down a full time job. I think it’s unlikely.)

Shlomo

And I owe a great debt to Shlomo Backrach, editor of the East Africa Forum, who — sad to report — died in December after a struggle with lung cancer. Shlomo cared passionately about Ethiopia and Eritrea and graciously shared his knowledge and wisdom with me over our regular long lunches at our favorite Lebanese restaurant on Connecticut Avenue here in Washington. He wrote long pieces analyzing Ethiopian/Eritrean politics, and we were all so much better informed because of his labors. Of course, he not only wrote for us, but worked tirelessly sending out his daily summaries of news from the Horn of Africa. We will all miss a colleague who contributed so much. I mourn a friend.

But most of all, I am grateful to Marian for all the work she did on the HERALD. Sure, she bamboozled me into editing the HERALD, a task she did by herself for years, but she continued to do an enormous amount of the work required to produce the HERALD. She laid out the pages, cropped the photos, corrected my spelling errors, sent out notices to us all that — at long last — an issue was available on line. Then she’d listen to all the complaints about what I had put in the edition. Without Marian there would be no HERALD and no E&E RPCV.

Janet

In recent years one of the HERALD’s most reliable and graceful writers has been Janet Lee (Emdeber 74–76). Recently Janet spent her six-month sabbatical from Regis University in Denver back in Ethiopia overseeing the establishment of the Segenat Children and Youth Library in Mekelle. She just can’t seem to stop volunteering. And I am pleased to announce that Janet, an experienced editor, has volunteered to take over the HERALD.  We will be well served. And I can stop fretting.

So thank you all for your patience and your support over these years. It was really just a piece of cake.

RPCV Legacy Program

New RPCV Legacy Program projects

In recent months the Board of Ethiopia & Eritrea RPCVs approved the applications for two more RPCV Legacy Program projects.

by Marian Haley Beil (Debre Berhan 62–64)

ITC for Mettu School

Patti Garamendi (Mettu 66–68) and her daughter Faith Garamendi are championing “Supporting the ICT (Information and Communications Technology) Lab for Mettu.” This RPCV Legacy Program project will join in the efforts of the Ethiopia-approved NGO Alumni Association of St. Gabriel School along with parents and community members to bring computer literacy and enhanced learning to the students of this primary-middle school through a project entitled “Enhancing the Quality of Education Through ICTs at St. Gabriel Primary School.” The long-term goal of the team is to:

  • Set up, in existing space, a computer lab that will be furnished with 20 computers, appropriate furnishings, and necessary wiring.
  • Provide computer literacy training to the school’s 25–30 faculty members.
  • Assure that the faculty members are capable of designing curriculum and teaching students and community members using computers and the Internet in their own areas of study.
  • Provide enhanced educational opportunities for the students and citizens of Mettu.

Patti and Faith’s RPCV Legacy Program project has established an initial goal to raise $10,000 for the purchase of 20 computers, and 20 desks and chairs for the workstations in the ITC Lab.

You can help this project by making a tax-deductible donation. Go to About the RPCV Legacy Program to learn how to either send a check or donate through PayPal.

Publishing “Eritrea Remembered”

Readers may recall an article in a previous issue of the Herald entitled “Memories of Eritrea” in which Scott Rasmussen, the Public Affairs Officer at the U.S. Embassy in Asmara suggested a project to video record the recollections of PCVs who served in Eritrea. I volunteered to help in any way I could. After some discussion and thought, we decided that logistically it would be easier to produce a book. A notice was sent out to all Eritrea RPCVs for whom E&E RPCVs had an email address to invite them to submit pieces focusing on relationships between them and the people of Eritrea.

It was decided that the book would be published under the imprint of Peace Corps Writers – the publishing arm of Peace Corps Worldwide. I would edit, design and lay-out the book, and it would be printed by CreateSpace, a print-on-demand subsidiary of Amazon. The only cost for the production of the book would be approximately $400 to pay for the initial printing set-up, and distribution management services from CreateSpace. To cover that cost I proposed an RPCV Legacy Program project to the board to raise the funds for this project that would contribute to one of the stated purposes of our group – “promoting world peace and understanding, especially among peoples in the United States, Ethiopia and Eritrea.” The project was approved. With donations from some of the authors who had submitted pieces for the book, the necessary funds were raised.

The book, Eritrea Remembered: Recollections and Photos by Peace Corps Volunteers, was publish this past December 15th. Those with pieces in the book are Marianne Arieux (Asmara 65–67), Mike Bannister (Asmara 73–74), Leo Cecchini (Asmara 62-64), Tom Cutler (Agordat 63–64), Harold Freeman (Mendefera 65–67), Walt Galloway (Adi Teclesan 70), Tom Gallagher (Agordat 62–64), Cathie Hulder (Decamere 64–66), Paul Huntsberger (Saganeiti 65–67), Wayne Kessler (Adi Teclesan 64–66), Cynthia Tse Kimberlin (Mendefera, Asmara 62–64), Neil Kottler (Asmara 64–66), Curt Peterson (66–70), Joann Feldman Richards (Keren 66–68), Mary Gratiot Schultz (Mendefera 65–67), Lois Shoemaker (Asmara 62–64), Judy Smith (Asmara 63–65) and Kate Yocum (Kudo-Abuor 97–98).

Read a review of Eritrea Remembered by Bryan Cramer (Adi Gudem 09–11).

Eritrea Remembered is available in paperback and Kindle ebook (without photos) versions.

All royalties from the sale of Eritrea Remembered support the RPCV Legacy Program project “Healthcare Books for Rural Communities.”

PCVs in Ethiopia

Sliding in Broadside: “What a ride!”

PCV Keith Keyser may be three times the age of most PCVs, but his energy (and success) is a wonder to behold.

By Janet Lee (Emdeber 74-76)

“He may be retired, but I have a hard time keeping up with him,” says a twenty-something male PCV about fellow Volunteer Keith Keyser. To look at Keith, one would not imagine that he had just celebrated his 70th birthday. Nothing slows him down. He is adored and respected by the other Volunteers, many of whom are the age of his own grandchildren. In fact, he signs most of his emails Keith/Dad/Grandpa/Great Grandpa. He is also more wired than most of the other Volunteers, updating his Facebook page, blogs and emails at all hours of the day and night through the use of CDMA (Code Division Multiple Access) technology — electricity and internet permitting, of course; this is Ethiopia after all. That should not come as a surprise; he retired as the IT Director from Denver Water not so long ago.

Although assigned to the Finote Selam office that is in charge of the prevention and control of HIV/AIDS and the support of those with suffering from the diseases, Keith has tallied up a wide variety of successes in his short two years in Finote Selam.

Among them are:

  • Creating an Access database for the hospital to manage its patient medical records
  • Setting up a chicken project complete with a three-room chicken house and an incubator room;
  • Writing a handful of grant proposals;
  • Setting up a community library and securing reference books for the secondary school library;
  • Helping set up two urban gardens;
  • Hosting weekly English language discussion groups in his home;
  • Helping obtain soccer balls for a youth and sports group;
  • Working with a health club at the Preparatory School to distribute mosquito nets;
  • Accompanying three girls to the summer Camp Glow, Girls Leading our World camp in Gondar;
  • Volunteering with Operation Smile in Jimma, an organization that performs surgery on cleft lips.

Still nothing has touched his heart as much as his work with the mentally ill and in particular, a young woman named Ana (not her real name). His emails are filled with her trials and tribulations, ups and downs, bumps and bruises, progress and relapses. She is schizophrenic with a persecution complex, and like so many mentally ill in Ethiopia was ignored, abused, and left to fend for herself. While working as a housemaid for a family, the son took advantage of her sexually. When she became pregnant, the family kicked her out of the house. She was approximately 16 years old and on the street when she gave birth. She struggled to raise her daughter while begging, but ultimately her child was taken from her and given up for adoption. Until she met Keith, her only protector was a Moslem bike repair shop owner who allowed her to while away her time at his shop. She slowly came to trust Keith and called him her “father and mother.”

It took some doing, but Keith was able to put together the proper papers, accompany her to Addis Ababa and have her admitted to a hospital where she was treated. Although nearly everyone else had given up on her, “Her eyes tell me that there is a vibrant person in there that wants to come out!” It is unclear what may have triggered her illness. It may have been brought on by her poverty and lack of ability to care for her daughter who was then taken away from her, or some other traumatic event in her life, including being sexually molested while living on the streets. Her situation is further complicated by being HIV positive.

Even though the hospital may be one of the best mental hospital in East Africa, Keith felt like he was abandoning her at the hospital, a bit like in “One Flew over the Cuckoo’s Nest.” Ana shared a ward with 19 other women, each in varying stages of illness and delusions. Patients usually have a family member to watch after their affairs, provide them with care, food, tea, and other types of support. Keith was able to find a surrogate caregiver for a fee. In the meantime, Keith needed to deal with the typical Ethiopian bureaucracy of paperwork and signatures for her treatment.

After nearly two months of hospitalization, she returned to Finote Selam where the community was surprised at how “normal” she had become. She seemed to be recovering well emotionally, but was having difficulty adjusting to the HIV/AIDS medication, a common occurrence for the first few months as the body’s immune system is challenged by the medications. For the most part, she has reliably taken the medications on her own, but has occasional mishaps. She developed a severe infection on her head while Keith was away on Christmas holidays, an infection that is not that uncommon in AIDS patients. That has been treated and her life has some resemblance to normality.

Ismael

Keith’s reputation as a miracle worker and sympathetic soul has drawn others with mental illness to him for assistance. He and Ismael, the bike repair shopkeeper, have taken over 45 patients to the Addis Ababa hospital for treatment, a harried and eventful eight-hour mini bus experience, each direction. But Ana will always have a special place in his heart.

Keith has decided to extend his service and transfered to Mekelle at the beginning of this year to work with the Clinton Foundation to help improve the management of the country’s hospitals. This extension will allow him to occasionally check on Ana and his other projects. It seems that Ethiopia has had as much an effect on him as he has had on it. The extension will also give him an opportunity to travel further within and outside of Ethiopia and pursue his passion for photography. One of his recent photos, “Preparing the Garden for Planting,” was selected as a finalist in the Peace Corps 50th anniversary photo contest.

His wry, self-deprecating sense of humor comes through in his emails, blogs, and Facebook page, especially in the captions to his most exquisite photos. In a pre-Peace Corps experience in a Masaii village in Tanzania, he reflects, “The Masaii village people gave us gifts before we left; I was given a goat since I was the oldest member of our group.”

What keeps him going? Where does he get that passion for life? He explains that he believes in this adage: “Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, wow . . . what a ride!!!”

Preparing the Garden for Planting

PCVs in Ethiopia

Meeting Everyday Challenges in Ethiopia Head On: The Development of a Peer Support Network

Looking forward, looking back

By Teri Enomoto (Emdiber 09–11)

Eating kitfo with Tewolde

THE BEGINNING OF THE NEW YEAR is time to make resolutions and take a personal inventory. As many of us emerge from the holiday-induced haze like zombies from a horror movie, we begin to re-assess our lives. We put 2011 to bed as we look forward to new experiences, habits and personal growth.

Teri with her host parents Aschalew Taye and Helen Tayu of Dera

I find that while I am looking to the future, I also have one eye on the past. For many recently returned RPCVs, this is the time when the finality of two years of experiences coalesces and there is nothing that can be altered to that chapter of life on Ethiopian soil. It is not only about saying goodbye to one’s Ethiopian friends, family and town but also about a very distinct part of oneself; it is also about making peace with the experience by reconciling the good and the bad. It is a time to reminisce about what may end up being a very defining part of one’s life.

As I ruminate about my own Peace Corps experience, there are many things that I wished I could do over again: things I wished I said, people I wished I met and events in which I wished I participated. While I may have a few regrets, there are some events that fundamentally changed who I am in positive ways. One such experience was my involvement with the post’s Peer Support Network (PSN).

The Addis staff decided that some form of peer support was needed because the number of PCVs doubled while the staff size did not. There were nine of us who were elected: four Volunteers from Group 2 (2008–10): Karen Simms (Fitche), Mike Mallon (Debre Sina), Peter Buonincontro (Fincha) and Rich Gelicame (Hawassa); and five from Group 3 (2009–11): Aimee Uchytil (Bichena), Laura Copeland (Quiha), Raymael Blackwell (Mizan Terefi), Sher Vogel (Mertolemariam), and myself. We underwent an emotionally intense three-day training in October 2010 with Daynese Santos, the Peace Corps Medical Officer in Swaziland. We learned about supporting fellow PCVs through active listening and communication skills, as well as identifying common service challenges, red flags and grief resulting from loss.

After the training, we had several long meetings where we collaborated on what we envisioned PSN to be. I recall the shortest meeting lasted six hours. We elected our officers with Karen as President, Rich as Logistician, Laura as Secretary and Sher as PR Coordinator. Our first step was to create an internal structure. We crafted a mission statement that reflected our aim: “To provide, with integrity and confidentiality, a supportive, non-judgmental, and safe environment that will endure and evolve to meet the diverse needs of every Peace Corps/Ethiopia trainee and volunteer.” We also drafted a constitution. Once we understood what our mission would be, we came up with a calendar of events that consisted of trainings and PCV support events (e.g., encouragement cards, care packages, etc.).

Rich devised a detailed budget based on the calendar of events. We proceeded to set upon the task of developing a framework for the trainings. We wanted to make these sessions systematic so that it would be sustainable; future PSN members would be able to facilitate training content because the topics would be preset and recorded in written form (e.g., pre-service training would involve diversity and resiliency issues while in-service training would deal with sharing community integration suggestions and experiences). We split up the content and each of us devised specific goals, objectives and activities for the sessions. We then reviewed and edited the content as a group and Karen formatted it into a working document that we called our Internal Manual. In addition, we began the process of establishing a manual that we would send to newly sworn in Volunteers with coping strategies, as well as identifying physical and emotional wellness issues. Each member was assigned a few topics to write.

We each contributed a photo and an inspiring quote in December which Mike used to create a color calendar for Volunteers and Staff. It included PCV birthdays and holidays (American and Ethiopian). He also sent congratulatory emails to Group 2 Volunteers who finished their service.

During the spring of 2011, we continued to work on the development, testing and modification of our training content. When Karen finished her service, we added Jess Miner (Assella) to supplement the team with the technical expertise of an art therapist. Sher completed the editing and layout process for both the Training Manual (formerly the Internal Manual) and the New PCV Manual. Emily DiGiovanni (Konso), Libbey Brown (Goba), Nancy Sturtevant (Wondo Genet), and Seth Kammer (Sebo) were elected from Group 4 (2010–12) and went through a PCV-run PSN training orientation.

I learned so much from the individuals on PSN. Each person brought such a unique personality and set of skills to the table. It was, and continues to be, a collaborative environment. I can honestly say that I have never been part of a group that was as hard-working and supportive as PSN and I may never be again. I would come out of our marathon meetings exhausted, overwhelmed with the ideas and options but satisfied with the work we were doing. As I look forward to the post-PC phase of my life, I will bring the skills I developed during this time with me as a thoughtful reminder of what can be achieved.